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graybriggs
New Member
United Kingdom
7 Posts |
 Posted - 28/03/2008 : 15:44:15
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I've finally gotten all my engine bolts unstuck so they can be removed apart from this one:
http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/834/boltnc308x6qm2.jpg
I'm sure you all know it - the adjuster and mounting bolt.
My problem is that the allen key slips when trying to turn the adjuster bolt and I can get no torque to move the mounting bolt. So far it hasn't shifted at all.
Anyone have any ideas or improvisations to get a grip on this thing to budge? It is holding me back and is very frustrating!
Ta,
Gray |
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viper_biker
Administrator
Ireland
7563 Posts |
Posted - 28/03/2008 : 15:51:18
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| Can it not be 'tapped' out from the other side? It's been a while since I swapped frames so I can't remember exactly, but if you haven't already done this, you'll need to put the engine and frame on the floor so as the weight of the motor is not resting on the bolt. |
Social worker: "Glen honey, I got a question for you. What do you do for a living?
Quagmire: "I got a question for you. Why are you still here?" |
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graybriggs
New Member
United Kingdom
7 Posts |
Posted - 28/03/2008 : 16:13:47
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The bolts are still in the engine and the engine itself is supported with a trolley jack.
The adjuster bolt slides out easily, the thing is that that is needed to turn and remove the mounting bolt which is what i need to remove. The allen key slips in the adjuster bolt and if the mounting bolt is anything like the other ones its gonna take a miracle to remove (i had to use an impact gun on two engine bolts!) :O
Pic: http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/5554/adjmntnc308x6mo7.jpg
It's just this bolts unconventional style that is causing problems. I have no idea why they'd design it like this, but i know its a pain in the ass... anyway..
Cheers |
Edited by - graybriggs on 28/03/2008 16:16:19 |
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oily
Forum Veteran
United Kingdom
3472 Posts |
Posted - 28/03/2008 : 18:58:26
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I ended up getting medievil on mine with the welding torch  i think that's the only remedy unless you soak it in penetrating oil for about a year  |
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graybriggs
New Member
United Kingdom
7 Posts |
Posted - 28/03/2008 : 20:04:50
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I've already sprayed about half a can of wd40 in and around it over the course of several days to make sure its in every part that its gonna go in!
I have an idea using some kind of squared/rectangular block of metal that fits inbetween those "lips" on the mounting bolt then attaching/welding a lever onto that to hopefully get it moving. Its an idea but have no idea where I'm going to start in making that...
I really don't want to resort to welding anything directly onto this or cutting it.
All suggestions very welcome |
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oily
Forum Veteran
United Kingdom
3472 Posts |
Posted - 29/03/2008 : 00:28:30
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| Just heat it up with the blow torch/welding torch and start whacking it with a hammer and drift |
Edited by - oily on 29/03/2008 00:30:15 |
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giff
Senior Member
United Kingdom
1414 Posts |
Posted - 29/03/2008 : 07:37:24
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| WD40 is not really a penetrating oil, to loosen stuck bolts you need something like "plus gas" or "gibb's brand" which I frequently use to very good effect. |
Giff |
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tom wood
Settled In Member
United Kingdom
109 Posts |
Posted - 30/03/2008 : 11:23:21
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| I work at an engineering firm that manufactures gas turbines. When they come back lots of bolts are seized due to heat or corrosion because the turbine is offshore. The fitters who strip them at overhaul use plus gas, loads of it. They also try to tighten the bolt slightly to 'crack off' any corrosion on the thread, then undo it. But it sounds like the application of a little heat and brute force might be needed. I always think its better to ruin the bolt than what the bolt is stuck in. |
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wills123
Settled In Member
United Kingdom
121 Posts |
Posted - 30/03/2008 : 12:23:52
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| If the allen key hole is already rounded off and knackered then you could try hammering the relevant size torx bit in!! Have used this to great effect on many cars over the years! |
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graybriggs
New Member
United Kingdom
7 Posts |
Posted - 30/03/2008 : 17:42:45
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After heating it, hitting it and cutting two different sockets to try to fit the mounting bolt to remove it, I'm ashamed to say I ended up cutting it off! :-/
But hey.. I finally removed the broken engine!
http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/5287/engout1hy2.jpg
All is well with that then. I can go to work cleaning and preparing for dropping in the new engine. It still doesn't solve the problem of removing that old bolt which is still in the frame! I can't imagine it being so difficult to remove with no weight there though.
Must order me a new one.
Thank you for all help/suggestions.
Gray |
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Howl
Settled In Member
United Kingdom
83 Posts |
Posted - 31/03/2008 : 20:17:23
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| Hi Gary you might still have trouble with the remainder of the bolt if the steel and alu have reacted and sort of welded themselves together ( galvanic corrosion )or you might just spin it out with your fingers . |
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fastdruid
New Member
United Kingdom
21 Posts |
Posted - 31/03/2008 : 20:50:12
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I had a similar problem removing the bottom bolt on a VFR750FJ, ended up cutting inbetween the adjuster and engine and then could hammer out the remainder of the bolt. Once I got it out I realised the reason it was stuck was that the bolt ran through a U shapped channel open to all the road crap and it had rusted.
Stupid honda design though to have a tiny (5mm IIRC) allen key to remove a M10 bolt!
http://www.fastdruid.co.uk/albums/VFR750/thumbs/640x480DSC01989.JPG
(the bolt with a nut on the end half way under the gear lever, just slightly left and down of the centre of the image)
Druid
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Ideas needed to remove one engine bolt
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